Ronconuovo

Up at Ronconuovo, the day sets its own pace. The three traditional baite sit among woodland and stone terraces, surrounded by mountains. At the centre of the three cabins is the cedar table, where late lunches turn into even later evenings. Maybe that’s why Ronconuovo is best rented as a group, with friends who don’t mind waiting and enjoy life at an unhurried pace. 

The sauna, the hot tub and the ovens are all wood-fired, so nothing here is instant. We light the fire, we wait, and the conversation fills the time. Coffee follows the same rule: we grind the beans by hand, heat the water and talk while it brews. It’s a small effort. The little chores keep us busy – and we love it.

Floating beds and panoramic balconies, a fruit orchard, a fire pit and an outdoor kitchen – at Ronconuovo, architecture, design and nature blend together. Dry-stone walls, plenty of wood and a forest-inspired colour palette keep nature in the spotlight, never in a supporting role here. We let the history of the place lull us into its slower pace.

A daybed in front of a wood-burning fireplace, a small private coffee bar and an attic with a mattress under the wooden roof make us feel very cosy. But not for long. After a short break, we head out to the cedar table once more to prepare tonight’s dinner: pizza, with a starry sky on the side.

Two days at Ronconuovo without ever leaving the premises would be easy: hosts Carolin and Timo look after the details, stock the kitchen with a carefully chosen selection of provisions, and leave the rest to us.

But we wouldn’t want to miss Chiavenna down in the valley. A trading village for centuries, it still has its old streets and its own rhythm. Molto italiano? You bet.

Dinner in the village? A running route or a hiking trail in the mountains? Whatever we are looking for, the hosts know. She is a mountain guide, he is an ultra runner – and they know the area on foot: the Valchiavenna, the Splügen valley, the Bergell.

It is easy to fall in love with a place like this, and Timo and Carolin are proof. The couple, who spend part of their time in the German city of Heidelberg, were hooked once they discovered the Valchiavenna. They want people to enjoy time together, far from the grid, and to fill centuries-old walls with the present.

Before Ronconuovo, they restored Bottonera Casa Vacanze in Chiavenna, down below: four spacious suites in an old townhouse, welcoming guests with Italian-made design – alpine or minimalist, always refined. The couple makes sure we switch off: there is no TV, just a book on the nightstand. Rest easy.